Header - picture

Header - picture

Thursday, October 22, 2015

A Slow Way Home



Traveling home on the backways of Wyoming and Utah, I chanced to see the huge Mormon Temple in Manti with its two steeples. 












Next day, hiking in Red Canyon near Panguitch, I happened upon another temple with two steeples constructed a very long time ago.  Calcium carbonate accumulated in the bottom of an ancient lake.  Then the land rose about ten million years ago, cracking as it did, allowing water to carve this very old structure.  Churches and temples usually honor some ancient tradition, but what church can match this ancientness. 














Look closely at this pillar of the faith, this temple steeple and tell me why it does not fall.  How was it built? By whom?  And why? 















Is there a creativeness in us that originated long before we were? 








I set out on a Forest Service road called Skyline Drive after a day of rain, hoping its seventy miles of dirt road would not bring my jeep to a creative stop.  I started up the first ten miles, gaining several thousand feet of elevation, knowing  I could come back down.  The road turned from gravel to mud, and then it turned downhill.  I walked ahead to make a decision.  It was not worth the risk.  I turned back. 

Monday, October 19, 2015

The Final Leg

Driving south from Jackson, Wyoming, I passed a herd of cattle coming down the highway toward me.  It’s one of the unexpected pleasures of backroad travel, which I’ll always do instead of interstates, whenever time allows.  It seems nowadays that getting there is not the goal it used to be. 









A poem by Lois P Jones
     (written today)

She eschews interstates
preferring instead

the slow gate of the back road. This time
a herd of cattle stops her jeep

and not just any heifers, these beauties
are as black as a Teton night, their muscled

bodies caught in a chiaroscuro of motion
and power. She says it’s not

about the end, but the distance. Not about
the tip of the peak but the sediments

“laid down in the lake long ago.” Forget
about those preplanned itineraries where

tourists line up like logs to catch the stream.
Take me to Death Canyon, she says

then bends at the edge of its precipice
into the maw of its name.



I came to Fossil Butte National Monument, a place of exquisitely preserved creatures with no admission cost.  Here, 52 million years ago, a lake full of fish and amphibians flourished in the Eocene sun, now seen in the Green River Formation “Here she goes again,” I hear you say, “Off on another geological rant, which she wants us to like.”  Yes you are right. 






Did you notice the white layer of rock above the red sandstone in the above picture?  Of course you did, and you want to know why I think it’s important.  Well, it’s 350 feet thick and represents the accumulations of sediments laid down in a lake long ago.  See, in the close-up, that the limestone is layered, not bulky as in other limestones I’ve shown you from other trips—the Mojave Desert, for example.  No, this limestone is layered and contains treasures.






See how it splits apart, reveals fish and frogs and creatures similar, but different, from animals we see alive and edible today.  Meat we eat is similar to meat they ate 52 million years ago. 









Here are just two of the hundreds of species of meals you could have had back then, except that no human existed then.  














With that in mind, and hungry for a fish dinner, I came to the town of Kemmerer, Wyoming.  There I found the first JC Penny store, the Mother Store, and figured I had seen enough very old things for one day.  






Thursday, October 15, 2015

Death Canyon

Teewinot (Many pinnacles)
Grand Teton (center),
Middle Teton and South Teton

Les Trois Tetons


How does a place get it’s name?  French Canadians named these peaks, Les Trois Tetons (three breasts) presumably because they had nothing else to think about.  Today we call then Grand Teton, Middle Teton and South Teton.  I prefer the traditional Shoshone name Teewinot (Many pinnacles)   












Phelps Lake and
Death Canyon


A canyon emerges from the Teewinots, stopping abruptly at Phelps Lake as if chopped off by a huge knife.  They call it Death Canyon.  Its abrupt mouth is not unusual, because all the canyons and mountains stop abruptly at the Teton Fault, which makes a distinct boundary with a valley called Jackson Hole.  Early explorers thought that “hole” was a good name for a valley. 












So how did Death Canyon get its name.  I went to find out. It’s a rugged high-walled canyon, a hard climb out of Phelps Lake.  Maybe someone fell over the side.   
















Then a sudden wall of trees with a dark hole where the trail led.  Cautiously, I entered stopping to let my eyes adjust.  













Deep woods, foreboding, where little girls get eaten by goblins and ghosts are known to prowl.









I think they were scared to Death and only one of them returned to name it.

Tuesday, October 13, 2015

Putt-Putt Trail






After we had talked of hiking and biking, a young Hispanic man told me that I should ride a trail known to locals as Putt-Putt.  It’s great biking, he said—easy.  But his description of how to find it was less than great.  













There is no word in English for “going somewhere without caring whether or not you get there.”  A vacilador does this in Spanish.  There are many hispanic people in Jackson, Wyoming.  Most of them serve the tourist industry which is about the only industry here.  Their relaxed and friendly nature makes things work around here.  Why would we want them to leave?  They have worthy goals, whereas mine for today is merely to see where the bicycle takes me.






Unlike workers who serve breakfast and clean motel rooms, I’m a vacilador, set out on a bicycle not caring if I find Putt-Putt or not. 




I rode just a mile in early morning to the Virginian Café and stopped cold.  I sat sipping coffee in its warmth until nine in the morning, when the thermometer outside the window finally rose above freezing.  Then I donned my winter coat and thick gloves, went outside and thought about sadly scorched souls in sunny summerland of the magic kingdom.    











I rode east until I was out of Jackson and found a little sign pointing up a dirt road, saying “Trailhead.”  Another sign read “Putt-Putt.”  I had found it, but it was not an easy trail to ride.  I soon gave up trying, and walked the bike instead.  No, I did not fall off, the bike is merely resting there on its side.











Off to the right I saw a small cabin, its door swinging open.  I called as I approached it curiously, thinking a young Hispanic man might answer, but no response.  Inside was a shamble of things.  I shrugged unknowing, then returned to the trail and resumed pushing the bike up the hill. 










The day was warming fast, and I shed some layers of clothing.  Rising above Jackson I looked down on the town and wondered what the young man had been thinking when he told me I would like this bike trail and that it was easy.  












The trail led into aspen woods and, still pushing the bike, I felt better about being a vacilador.  It seemed that good things lie outside of cities, and I could learn something in this good place.  












How could anyone think that riding a bicycle on a trail like this is more fun than walking?












A pair of hikers came along and thought it strange I’d be here with a bike.  “Do you actually ride it,” they said, and offered to take my picture if I would. 













I came into some deep woods, where a river runs through it.  Whose woods these are I do not know, but they were very pleasant and inspired thoughts of an earth that was very old when I came into it.










On the Putt Putt path, she plants her bike
in the grasses and sizes up the deepening trail.
The roots of an old pine grasp the ground
as if to say “this is where I began,”
“this is where I’ll end.”
       Lois P Jones











Hunting season begins soon and I’m advised to wear bright orange so not to look like an elk or a deer.  It’s a hunt prescribed to prevent overcrowding of these native animals.  Meanwhile it seems to me there are too many people here in summer.  Now in fall, hunt completed, there are not too many.  









At dusk deer meet
      Lee Collins

in deep pines, content
to mingle idly, ruminate grass,
but delicately intent
mindful of someone shooting
far ahead,
they pause to look, mouths agape
tasting that cold bitter air.  








I finally came to a smooth dirt road on which I rode easily, and came pleasantly back into Jackson.  It could have turned out much differently. 







Monday, October 12, 2015

Long Times to Look


View from my room
in Jackson, WY
This is where I live.
the door is open.
Looking up from my room, I see the ski slopes of Snow King.  The lift ascends from near the middle of Jackson, Wyoming.  It’s not running now, but plenty of snow will arrive most any day now and the winter crowd will arrive. 












Looking down into
Jackson Hole
Snow King Ski Atrea


I can walk up a trail to the top from which I can see the Snake River Valley, better known as Jackson Hole, beyond the city of Jackson       









Flat Creek in Jackson


I can walk to most places in town, usually by back streets or along aspen-lined Flat Creek. 











Long Times to Look
     Sharon Hawley

The air has a sweet burn of frost
sun slides above a cloudbank
     sharp, keen, and freshly bright
a silence I can hear and feel
     a mystique close to religion

we are very young and callow in a world
     old when we came into it
looking into things not yet understood
     with long times to look

there’s a commonality in all these things   

Saturday, October 10, 2015

The Laurance S Rockefeller Preserve


The Rockefellers have donated a large portion of the land for Grand Teton National Park.  The most recent donation in 2001 still bears the Rocefeller name on its entry sign.  It was given with special restrictions, showing less trust of government than was shown in earlier donations. 













Having received very few comments on my last post, perhaps because it shows stark, barren, and inhospitable rock, today we shall walk along the pleasant shore of Phelps Lake  in the Laurance S Rockefeller Preserve.










A few of the aspen along the lake shore have held their leaves perhaps because water in the lake, warmed by the sun all summer, softens the October cold. 











As if it were impatient for winter, the wind dances with a dry leaf.

The mountain mercury rose and the fell by 40 degrees today.  Phelps Lake in a light breeze        










Eventually the lake will fill with sediment and become a meadow like this nearby former lake.